After arriving back home from the Inspiring Explorers’ Expedition 2019, Mele and Lana were excited to feature on kid’s TV show ‘Fanimals’. They shared the story of their trip to the Antarctic Peninsula where they learned about wildlife, the history of polar exploration, and science happening on the ice today.
The segments were split up between two episodes. Be sure to check them both out!
After a short break and some time to process her experience in Antarctica, we caught up with Inspiring Explorer Caragh Doherty to get her perspective on the expedition, find out the highlights of the trip and the big challenges she faced.
My favourite moment was when we were in Paradise Bay sitting in a kayak facing all the glaciers. It was 360 degrees being surrounded by ice that I felt so small, and so humbled by Mother Nature all around me. It was the most raw, beautiful pure moment of my life. It was amazing.
Dairy entry: Sunday 10th March 2019
After lunch we set out Kayaking. What an amazing kayak it was. We kayaked through so much brash ice. The noise it makes, the shapes of the ice, the way it bobs up and down in the ocean and the way it pops as it starts to melt in the ocean. We paddled quite far this afternoon and ended up in Paradise cove. A remarkable spot at Admiral Brown Base. We were almost surrounded by glaciers. They were shaped like dominoes and just looked amazing. Then you heard this thunderous crash and there would be a slide in the ice. Some would end up in the water, and a significant swell reached our kayaks. That was the moment when it struck me about how powerful Mother Nature is and is certainly not a force to be reckoned with. I felt very small compared to the massive ice, which we were surrounded by.
It was more what was happening to my body than my mind. It was rocking, and even we got onto land my body was still rocking. I was sad that we were finishing that chapter of our lives, and remember thinking “I hope we don’t just go back to our everyday lives, but that we keep the story going.” Although, I did have mixed emotions arriving back in Ushuaia, because while it meant saying goodbye to everyone, I was one step closer to getting home to my kids who I missed terribly.
I want to share the legacy of Antarctica. I want people to know how powerful Mother Nature is, and how untouched the planet can be. We’ve altered the planet so much in the society we live in. We have wrecked a lot of the environment and if we could just simplify things and preserve what things we have rather than get rid of parks and put up more buildings.
There were a couple. Definitely getting in and out of the kayaks, especially from the zodiacs. It was difficult enough on land, but add in the layers you are wearing, the ocean and the ice and the zodiac, and there were several made-for-YouTube moments, but I didn’t fall in so that was a good thing. The other challenge was the same but in reverse when we had to get back out of the kayak and into the zodiac.
I learnt I can do anything. I can go anywhere, and mix and mingle with anyone. Before this trip I did underestimate my own ability and doubt my place in the world, but little ole Caragh from little ole Otara – we rocked it in Antarctica. Especially being older, I wondered how I would keep up, but it was fine.
Diary entry: Sunday 3 March 2019
So, what a busy few days we have had with soooo many first and new experiences for me. Talk about lost child at the airport, not even knowing how to check in. Lucky for Toni (Mele’s dad) guiding us through the process. It was so cute that the families and school family came to the airport. I said goodbye to my two boys at home and surprisingly I was ok (as were they). I was glad to be sitting with the girls (Mele and Lana so I could keep an eye on them and felt a sense of ‘normal’ to the very ‘un normal’ situation I was in. I feel a sense of protection and guardianship towards the girls and even more so – to their parents. But at the same time I want then both to grow immensely on this trip.
The other guests on the boat were worldly and well-travelled so I wasn’t sure what to expect of them or how I would fit in, but everyone was so relatable. The whole ship became one big family. We all sat at different tables at meal times and moved around to meet people so by the end of the trip we were all friends. It was a lesson for me not to judge, because my expectation was that they would be different, but everyone was amazing.
I want people to know that they shouldn’t settle for what’s in front of them. Whether it’s your lounge, your local park or your school, you need to push your boundaries and get out and explore. Step out of your comfort zone because you never know where it will take you. For us it took us to Antarctica, for other people who knows where it will take them. I will say don’t just settle for what is right in front of your eyes, but see what else is out there. I also want people to know that we need to look after our planet, because it is precious and we need to take better care of it.
Diary entry: Monday the 4th of March 2019
Sitting on the bow of the boat and just staring out to sea is my favourite way to pass the time on the Drake Passage. So far we have seen many lighthouses and a range of birds. There is a keen birdwatcher on the boat so I will make sure to learn what I can from him. Today I say a very elegant albatross playing chicken with our boat. It was pretty staunch but eventually retreated. In due course the sun set and I could no longer see anything so retreated back inside.
I didn’t realise how much the team and all their little quirks meant to me until the night they went camping. I stayed on the boat and ended up writing in my diary about how much I missed them. I couldn’t believe I was more homesick for my boat family, than my real family! Marco was like a goofy little brother and Georgie was like my big sister, even though she is younger than me, and Leah was my little sister. Everyone was so comfortable with each other, we were just who we were.
Of course you should. Grab any opportunities that come your way and never underestimate your ability or fitness levels. Don’t doubt yourself, just go for it.
Make the most of every opportunity given to you. The trip is full of opportunities to make connections and to challenge yourself. You definitely need to live in the moment because you can’t take back the time if you miss it. I didn’t want to go in the single kayak, but I knew I would regret it if I didn’t, so I went and I did it.
Diary entry: Sunday 3 March 2019
We survived Buenos Aires and headed out early in the morning to Ushuaia. How about it, I had two seats to myself. Went out to dinner and it was hands down the best BBQ lamb ever, and the biggest!!
Georgie inspired me when she talked about her experiences as a solo camper so the day I came back I went with my partner to find out about buying a tent so we can do family holidays that aren’t touristy things. We are going to go and look for DOC campsites and go and explore Mother Nature around New Zealand. We’ve camped before but always borrowed kit and gone to the popular places. Now we’re going to head out simply and without the mod cons and have an adventure. The kids are so excited.
Antarctic Heritage Trust/Leah Stewart Caragh explores Deception Island in Antarctica
After a short break and some time to process his experience in Antarctica, we caught up with Inspiring Explorer Marco de Kretser to get his perspective on the expedition, find out the highlights of the trip and the big challenges he faced.
My favourite part of the trip was the overnight camping on the ice. It was just mind blowing. I keep looking back through photos and reliving the experience. It was just so memorable. The best moment for me was in the morning when I woke up. I sat up, everyone was still asleep, and I watched as the sun climbed up over the mountain peak and the snow turned orange. It was that single moment when I realised that ‘Wow, this isn’t a dream, this is really happening.”
Diary excerpt: Friday, 8 March 2019
The wind is so cold that each time you took a breath it sends a cold spike through your throat. The shovelling began. Creating your own ‘grave’ is an odd experience but somewhat satisfying as one slides the shovel deep into the powder snow. We made a hole in the snow just wide enough to fit us and our sleeping kit in, and then we build walls around our new home. As we prepared for bed, Leah and I decided to make use of the ‘toilet’ which entailed a 10 minute walk down past our kayaks, past two fur seals, up and hill and down the other side to where the other camp was. When we arrived we saw that the toilet was not quite as glamorous as the rest of our trip had been. Hidden in a tent, was a single plastic rubbish bin lined with a black bag with some slightly off-putting steam coming out and mixing with the cool Antarctic air. On the way back to the camp, Leah and I slid on our bums down the snow bank to our camp. It is debatable whether that was intentional or not. We spent the evening around camp chatting, taking photos of Georgie reading a book on Arctic adventure – yes, the wrong side of the globe, and videoing Mele building her first ever snowman.
On way back through the Drake Passage I was processing the experience and how amazing it was to be in Antarctica. But leaving the ship made me realise how incredible the on-board experience had been. The staff on the boat had been amazing. They were interested in our story, they shared their stories, they were there for all the time. The moment I left the ship and waved goodbye that was a moment that sticks in my mind. It was sad to leave the Ioffe family.
I was one of the first to get a bit cold and fluey, which left me tired and bunged up. I was exhausted but didn’t want to miss out on anything so went on some land excursions or in the zodiac with Mike – that gave us some good opportunities for photographing whales.
On the technology front, my purpose was to get sound recordings but it was a lot trickier than I expected it to be. The environment was much quieter than I thought it would be, except there was lots of human noise just when I needed it to be quiet. It’s also really hard to predict when things like whales breaching, or ice cracking are going to happen. The one exception was when we were on Deception Island surrounded by a fur seal colony. There was so much to record – ice cracking, seals and other animals. It was incredible for sound.
This experience taught me that there is still so much in this world that I am yet to learn and to experience. Being in Antarctica was the most weird, wacky, “How-did-I–get-here-at-18- years-old,” experience. The opportunity to talk to the scientists on board, to talk to Alex and Mike about the different extreme adventures that they’ve been on, It made me realise there is so much that I’m yet to do. It was quite humbling.
I was expecting most of the trip to be focussed around Antarctica, the wildlife and the phenomenal landscapes but the experience on ship was really good. I loved hanging out with the team, going to presentations, and getting to know the staff. My favourite presentations were ones given by the whale expert on the ship. He was genuinely excited for us to get to know about all the different whale species he knew we would see. Him sharing his knowledge made the experience so much better when we actually did see whales, because suddenly what he had talked about was there in real life.
Surprisingly, I thought the whales would be the most memorable things, but the best things by far for me were the leopard seals. Once at Cuverville Island, a leopard seal played around our zodiac for ages, even popping its head up and sticking his face in front of my camera. It was looking me in the eye and giving me some freaky smiles. And then it followed us back to the ship, leaping in and out of the wake of the boat. Even our boat driver was saying she had never seen anything like that before in her life.
What I want to share is how real the environment is. It’s not like you are in some sort of staged environment, like a zoo. You feel the raw-ness nature. It was so unpredictable and not censored in anyway, just a raw, real place. At Port Lockroy, I watched as a leopard seal caught a penguin and was thrashing it around the bay. It was pretty graphic but it’s just nature in action.
Diary excerpt: Thursday, 7 March 2019
Walking among seals and penguins was amazing. Penguin carcasses were mixed in between poo, snow and rock. Late in the evening around 6pm, through the window we saw the mast begin to glow. I quickly ran up to the Top Deck and saw 360-degree views of the most incredible sunset I have ever seen. Stunning orange light created these deep, dark silhouettes of the surrounding peaks.
When we got back to Buenos Aires, you realise how insanely busy life is. Everything is happening so quickly, there are the constant sounds of cars and people talking all the time. Being down in Antarctica, it was a unique experience just to be so calm and quiet. There was this one time when we were kayaking at Almirante Brown Station around Paradise Bay through calm flat waters surrounded by glaciers. It was so quiet and you’re alone in the environment. We couldn’t see the ship, or any other people; it was just the group of us kayaking quietly. The experience definitely made me want to get out into nature more often to experience it’s serenity, and I just want to encourage my audience to as well.
My skills took me there to take photos and capture Antarctic audio, but what I brought was the ability to act weird and whacky. Being able to loosen up and be comfortable being myself around the team, I think helped loosen everyone up. We were relaxed around each other and just became great friends.
Firstly, everyone was great about sharing gear, and made sure that we all had enough so no one felt cold. It did take a few days to figure out what to wear under the dry suit.
Secondly, there were a couple of people on the ship who asked us whether we had been friends for years, they found it hard to believe that we had basically just met. Everyone got so close to each other we were so comfortable in each other’s company.
Yes, of course. How else could an 18 year old get themselves to Antarctica. It was such an amazing experience to be part of the team and sailing off to the bottom of world. It still doesn’t feel real. It feels weird to be back in Auckland and just carrying on with life.
Just be yourself, and if that’s wild and whacky then be it. Be open and be comfortable around the team. Be prepared to make yourself vulnerable because once you get super close to everyone it’s so much fun. It feels like we have been friends forever.
The trip has definitely changed the focus of my life as now I want to explore the earth and get back out there. Alex and Mike’s talks of their extreme adventures have inspired me and I have been looking at joining the university mountaineering and alpine clubs. I definitely think this has instilled a desire in my heart to spend my life in nature.
After a short break and some time to process her experience in Antarctica, we caught up with Inspiring Explorer Rosanna Price to get her perspective on the expedition, find out the highlights of the trip and the big challenges she faced.
There were many moments but the highlight was definitely the night we spent on the ice. It was such a unique experience. I’ve never done anything like that before and I think I was a little bit nervous. When it was first floated that it was a possibility I thought we would be heading out with a sleeping bag and a tent. I imagined us sitting in the tent drinking hot chocolate. The next minute we got given a spade, told to walk up the hill, dig a hole and then tuck in our bivvy bag. I have gopro footage of me digging my hole in lots of real powdery snow, but I didn’t dig it deep enough because it was getting dark. Once you are in it, you just lie back and look at the stars. I woke up around 5am and the direction I was facing was perfect to see the sun rise. You could still see all the stars but the sun was this red glow coming up, and then all the colours started to change on the ice on the horizon, it was beautiful.
I was just really sad and I didn’t want to leave the ship. It was a whole surreal experience and I just want to do it all over again.
I got quite sick on the way back and it was challenging for me to call the doctor because I knew I was at risk of getting put in quarantine. In the end I was diagnosed with a chest infection and spent 24 hours away from the others. It was a spacious room though and I had an amazing view sleeping right next to the window.
I also know there was one time we were kayaking when we had the opportunity to paddle through an area between rocks. It was a bit like a washing machine with waves coming from everywhere. The instructor said that if we weren’t confident not to worry about doing it. I nearly didn’t go through, but the others did so I thought to myself “just do it”. It turned out to be fun and I even turned round and came back through it. It was quite thrilling.
Diary excerpt – March 12:
We have just explored an Antarctic volcano on Deception Island. This morning we paddled around the coast of the island, including through a choppy passage between a cliff and a high rock. The waves arose from all angles, making for such an exhilarating ride we did it twice. Humpback whales were spotted and playful seals followed our kayaks round the shore where we headed to the remnants of an abandoned whaling station in Whaler’s Bay. Seals everywhere!
I learnt to trust myself a bit more and just have fun. But by the end of the trip I was really having a good time, rather than worrying about falling out of the kayak or hitting ice bergs.
Diary excerpt – March 7:
The weather has taken a turn – the waves have become bigger, wilder, crashing over the bow and sending the boat into a pendulum-like motion. On the top deck we have to be extremely careful. The winds can knock you over if you don’t hold onto the rails. We kitted up in our kayak gear today, in preparation for the adventure that awaits tomorrow. The prep consists of layering up our clothing, getting into a dry suit, pulling on a skirt which attaches to the kayak, securing our life-vest and practising entering the kayak. While all this was going on, it was snowing on the deck. Amazing.
I didn’t expect the ice to be so amazing. The scale of it and how important it is. I was looking forward to all the wild life and animals, and seeing the whales up close, but for me actually the ice was breath taking. I was surprised by the magnitude of it, and how amazing the icebergs looked, how blue they are. I wasn’t expecting the colour, nor the wonderful shapes and sizes to be so captivating.
This expedition has made be even more aware of how important Antarctica is for the world and our environment. It really hit home on this trip how important it is that we look after our environment and our oceans. On a personal level, this trip is one of the highlights of my life. It’s so different from watching documentaries or seeing things online to actually being there. It has really inspired me to keep exploring and keep pushing myself.
They will be about getting outside your bubble and outside your comfort zone, but also learning about your environment and learning about Antarctica and educating yourself.
With modern technology and a vessel with all the comforts of home (showers, beds, hot meals), we travelled to Antarctica in relative luxury compared to the early polar explorers like Scott and Shackleton. I think the night on the ice may have been the closest experience to what they may have experienced in terms of discomfort (although definitely nowhere near the same degree), so I have a whole new level of respect for them. But I think the sense of wonder and amazement at this beautiful continent is inspiring no matter who you are, no matter when you visit Antarctica – whether a hundred years ago, today or a hundred years from now. I feel that just being there connected me to the great feats of these polar explorers.
Diary excerpt – March 11:
Today we stepped back in time by visiting Port Lockroy, a historic site maintained by Antarctic Heritage Trust’s sister Trust, the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. We explored the station here, Base A, which was established in 1944. The facilities have been preserved right from the tins of food, to the Reader’s Digest catalogues, to the scientific equipment, as well as sleeping and living quarters. We mailed postcards to ourselves from Port Lockroy’s famous Penguin Post Office – they won’t make it back to us until November as the staff, (including AHT’s own Conservation Programme Manager Al Fastier), have left for the season. In the afternoon we kayaked around Argentinean base Almirante Brown Station, to Paradise Bay. The Bay is a stunning vista filled with tall mountains, glaciers, and brash ice on a still harbour. Mike, Mele and I chose to hike up a hill, to view the beauty from above.
I wrote the daily updates back to the Trust. It was challenging because we couldn’t send images so I had to create word pictures to describe views and experiences that actually defied words. I feel like I got to know the team well and build a good rapport with everyone. Particularly it was important to hang out with Mele and Lana who I will be keeping in touch with over the next year as part of my mentoring outreach programme.
I don’t think there is a better bunch of people I could have gone on the expedition with. We gelled so well together. Everyone was really encouraging of one another, and helpful and excited for each other. I really miss hanging out with the team.
Yes, yes. Of course. You really grow as a person, you get to experience Antarctica and you make connections that will last a lifetime.
Take a moment to put down your camera and just experience being there, and absorb it. Waking up in Antarctica – that is the moment that has really stayed in my mind. I wasn’t focused on getting out my phone at that moment. Just breathing and being there. I’ll remember that for the rest of my life.
The polar plunge was epic. Although I wasn’t feeling well, I definitely forced myself to do it because how many people can say they went for a swim in Antarctica? Now I can!
The morning we were in Whalers Bay before we got ready to go kayaking, the guide said to wear our togs in case we wanted to go for a polar plunge. Then once we were on shore we stood on the edge of the water in a group waiting for the first person to make a move and start undressing. When I saw Georgie ditching the dry suit, I though “this is it”. Then we quickly stripped off and ran in. A passenger from Kazakhstan did it about three times. I managed about two strokes and then ran back out. It was so much fun. They had staff on the shore with towels and then they zoomed us back to the ship for hot chocolates, a plunge into the hot tub and then into some hot showers.
March 12
We have just explored an Antarctic volcano on Deception Island. This morning we paddled around the coast of the island, including through a choppy passage between a cliff and a high rock. The waves arose from all angles, making for such an exhilarating ride we did it twice. Humpback whales were spotted and playful seals followed our kayaks round the shore where we headed to the remnants of an abandoned whaling station in Whaler’s Bay. Seals everywhere!
Antarctic Heritage Trust/Sylvie Admore Remnants of old whaling supply boats on Deception Island
We also took the opportunity to go for a polar plunge – stripping down to our togs and running into the freezing water. I managed a couple of strokes before sprinting straight back out. The spectators (which numbered many more than those in their togs) had as much fun watching the spectacle as the swimmers themselves.
In the afternoon, we hiked up to the craters of the volcano. This side of the island was striped in black and white – volcanic pebbles and ice, the small rocks blackening the crater edges.
We are sad to say goodbye to Antarctica as we head back to the Drake Passage. Every moment of this huge adventure will be treasured for our lifetime.
One Ocean Expeditions Written by Inspiring Explorer Rosanna Price
March 13
Relatively calm waters on the Drake Passage today – as on our way to Antarctica, we’ve been fortunate to experience mild weather that is closer to the Drake Lake than the wild Drake Shake.
Many of the team are enjoying catching up on sleep – well-deserved after five non-stop days of adventure in Antarctic waters. Others have been attending the many presentations on offer today. First up was a presentation on albatrosses, many of which have been spotted from the ship today. Learning about the history and politics of the Antarctic Treaty has also been a highlight, as has hearing about the women of Antarctica – amazing too that one of our ship’s staff, Karen (also a Kiwi!), was one of the first fifty women to work in Antarctica as a member of the team at Scott Base.
Today has also been a fantastic opportunity to share previous Antarctic Heritage Trust Inspiring Expeditions’ short films with the rest of the passengers on the ship, who were in awe of the powerful narratives.
The night has ended with a hilarious game of Polar Pictionary, with our Inspiring Explorers and supporters putting forth a great show. We are all thrilled to hear that the Akademik Ioffe is ahead of schedule – we will arrive at Cape Horn around midday tomorrow, enjoying the calm waters, and will be met by a pilot ship that evening to be guided through the Beagle Channel back to Ushuaia.
Written by Inspiring Explorer Rosanna Price
One Ocean Expeditions View from the deck
Our 2019 Inspiring Explorers’ Expedition to the Antarctic Peninsula saw our largest group ever joined by New Zealand Olympic kayaker Mike Dawson.
March 11
Today we stepped back in time by visiting Port Lockroy, a historic site maintained by Antarctic Heritage Trust’s sister Trust, the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. We explored the station here, Base A, which was established in 1944.
Antarctic Heritage Trust Base A at Port Lockroy in winter
The facilities have been preserved right from the tins of food, to the Reader’s Digest catalogues, to the scientific equipment, as well as sleeping and living quarters.
UK Antarctic Heritage Trust/Al Fastier Base A has been conserved right down to the tins of food
We mailed postcards to ourselves from Port Lockroy’s famous Penguin Post Office – they won’t make it back to us until November as the staff, (including AHT’s own Conservation Programme Manager Al Fastier), have left for the season.
In the afternoon we kayaked around Argentinean base Almirante Brown Station, to Paradise Bay. The Bay is a stunning vista filled with tall mountains, glaciers, and brash ice on a still harbour. Mike, Mele and I chose to hike up a hill, to view the beauty from above.
After dinner, Nigel gave a riveting presentation about Shackleton’s whisky. Many passengers were keen for a tasting with the bottle he brought along.
Written by Inspiring Explorer Rosanna Price
March 10
Last night, on a flat, snowy hilltop we made our beds. By beds, I mean digging human-sized holes in the ice and then placing a ‘bivvy bag’ with a mat, sleeping bag and liner in the hole. The view was spectacular, mountains and icebergs resting in the ocean all around us. The colours changed as the sun went down. Mele made a miniature snowman. The clouds cleared and Lana saw shooting stars amidst the twinkling heavens.
Antarctic Heritage Trust Antarctic Peninsula
During the night there our group experienced varying degrees of sleep and coldness (temperatures down to -2). For me, cold toes in the morning was a small price to pay when you’re waking up in paradise.
This morning we went for a long paddle in Foyn Harbour. This ended with paddling into a rusted shipwreck – the remains of a ship that caught fire and sunk in 1915 carrying barrels of whale oil. More humpback whales and porpoising penguins sighted on our excursions.
In the afternoon we explored Cuverville Island, home to the leftovers of a Gentu penguin colony. Those of us that kayaked had whales surrounding the kayaks and swimming underneath. Some of us got up close and personal to an elephant seal and leopard seals.
We ended with a barbecue on the stern, mulled wine, Nutella doughnuts and whales breaching beside the ship.
Written by Inspiring Explorer Rosanna Price
One Ocean Expeditions Kayaking in the Antarctic Peninsula
March 9
Another amazing morning in Antarctica. Today we found the whales!
The ship docked up in Charlotte’s Bay – a glassy harbour surrounded by looming white glaciers over black rock, and home to large arctic-blue icebergs. Some icebergs had deep holes or caves in them, and we saw carving inside of one of these cavities.
One Ocean Expeditions We found the whales
A pod (if not pods) of humpback whales were breaching metres from our kayaks. A whale came up in front of me, mouth first, and I could make out the balaena and barnacles on its black coat. Some had a bright yellowy-orange colour on the underside of their tail which you could see as the tail came up and rolled into the ocean again.
In the afternoon, zodiacs carried some of us onshore to Portal Point. We saw a big Weddell seal lazing on the ice, fur seals playing around on the water and sliding on the ice, and a lone penguin looking for some friends. Overhead there were dozens of Antarctic shags flying above us.
We have arrived in perfect conditions to spend a night on the ice! After dinner we plan to kayak out to our own camping spot (for the Inspiring Explorers group), dig us some holes in the snow, and hunker down in bivouac sleeping bags for the night. We are all beaming about this rare opportunity.
Written by Inspiring Explorer Rosanna Price.
One Ocean Expeditions Whale seen from kayaks
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Antarctic Heritage Trust
Administration Building, International Antarctic Centre
38 Orchard Road, Christchurch 8053, New Zealand
Antarctic Heritage Trust
Administration Building, International Antarctic Centre
38 Orchard Road, Christchurch 8053, New Zealand
