Expedition Blog - Henry Conquer, South Georgia 2023

Henry Conquer was one of 22 young New Zealanders who travelled with the Trust to South Georgia in October 2023 for our ninth Inspiring Explorers Expedition™ to honour the centenary year of Sir Ernest Shackleton’s final expedition, the ‘Quest’.

For me, 2022 finished on a low. I was feeling flat, and my mental health was declining. Fortunately, my friends and family were supportive and able to help set me on my way again. In 2023, I took a break from the office to work as a bike guide, spent some time with my wonderful nephew, then set off to cycle across Europe. What really stood out, however, was my trip to South Georgia Island.

To save you the Google, South Georgia is an island in the South Atlantic Ocean about 2000km east of Argentina. It’s 160km long, 20km wide, and shaped like a croissant. Mostly uninhabited by humans, it’s one of the most remote places on Earth. Fortunately for me, it was also one of the most magical.

The journey was initially delayed, first by a flight being unable to land and then by the nauseating swells while at sea. Shortly after crossing the Antarctic convergence, we began to see the occasional Antarctic seabird and some incredible icebergs. Finally, after almost a week of travel, we were able to see South Georgia Island out the windows of the ship.

So, how did I find myself on a ship full of strangers approaching South Georgia? Generally, I am one for chasing opportunities. Earlier in the year, I applied for a seat on this trip as part of the Antarctic Heritage Trust’s Inspiring Explorers Expedition™. This was my fifth year applying, and I wasn’t particularly hopeful. In May, I received the bad news I was fifth in line for one of four places on the mountaineering team within the expedition. I hadn’t made the cut, and as I was quickly approaching 30, knew this was my last chance to apply. Instead, I was placed on a reserve list. After weeks, and then months, of waiting, the August deadline came and went. I had missed my chance. Gutted, I moved on and began looking for the next opportunity. Three days later, as I sat on a bus, I received a call from a man named Mike Barber, from the Trust, offering me a seat on the trip of a lifetime.

First sight of South Georgia. ©AHT/Henry Conquer

Henry Conquer in Godthul. ©AHT

The trip was to commemorate the centenary of the passing of Sir Ernest Shackleton in South Georgia, which brought the heroic era of Antarctic exploration to a close. He was the leader of one of the most inspiring survival stories of all time. It’s a story of risk, failure, teamwork and leadership that I highly recommend reading. The short story is that after failing to be the first man to reach the South Pole six years earlier, Sir Ernest Shackleton and his 27 men were attempting to be the first people to cross Antarctica. On his way to Antarctica in 1915, his ship Endurance became caught in the ice, forcing them to spend the winter there. After transferring their camping gear onto the ice, the ship was crushed and sank.

Now completely stranded, the team hopped on their lifeboats in search of land, which they found at Elephant Island. Shackleton and a small team then made a 15-day journey on a seven-metre boat over the South Atlantic Ocean to South Georgia. He crossed the frozen island with two others (and descended a waterfall) to reach civilisation and mount a rescue effort for those still trapped in Antarctica.

Shackleton’s Waterfall. ©AHT/Henry Conquer

Finally, we anchored off the coast of South Georgia. I struggle to describe the beauty of the place, but I’ll try. The rugged coastline is set against mountains, disappearing into clouds, while the valleys and beaches slowly shed their snow. The most stunning aspect of the island, however, was its wildlife. The beaches were guarded by the roars and snarls of dozens of enormous elephant seals. There were over a dozen skua and albatross, the occasional macaroni penguin and the most impressively inquisitive leopard seals. Slightly further inland, valleys and hills could be found covered with tens of thousands of king penguins. We were constantly awestruck and thankful for all we were surrounded by.

South Georgia wildlife. ©AHT/Henry Conquer

An elephant seal greeting. © AHT/Henry Conquer

South Georgia coastline. ©AHT/Henry Conquer

Henry with a leopard seal in the background. ©AHT/Patricia Mackenzie

There are too many standout moments to cover in one short blog post. The shared excitement of seeing icebergs floating outside our room windows. Confronting the tragic harshness of nature’s food chain. The comradery while taking turns to jump into the nearly freezing sub-Antarctic waters. Slowing drifting through the island’s fjord. Spending afternoons listening to inspiring stories of ornithologists and mountaineers. That uneasy feeling of walking around an old whaling station. A few cheeky leopard seals gnawing on the landing boat. There were so many great moments.

My adventure to South Georgia was truly the trip of a lifetime. I’ll never forget the great moments, and the tough times tested me to think in new and unexpected ways. Most of all, it inspired me to get out there, follow my dreams, explore who I am, and discover the world around me. Hopefully I’ll see you out there.